Escape to the Mountains of Stepantsminda, Georgia
We kicked off our trip to the Kazbegi region of northern Georgia with high hopes and a little bit of confusion about how tall Mount Kazbek actually is. Spoiler, it’s tall. Very tall. Somewhere around 16,500 feet. It’s the third-highest peak in Georgia and an extinct volcano that forms part of the border with Russia. But we weren’t here for stats. We were here for the views.
We drove our hired Prius north from Tbilisi, dodging aggressive drivers and picking our own lanes along the way. Our first stop was the Soviet-Georgian Friendship Monument just outside Gudauri. Built in 1983, this giant concrete horseshoe offers sweeping views of the valley below. It’s a bit weathered and under construction, but the panorama alone makes it worth the detour. It’s also free, so there’s that. The place is buzzing with tourists, snack stalls, and an oddly strong police presence.
From there, we headed to our hotel in Stepantsminda: Rooms Hotel Kazbegi. It’s the highest-rated option in the region and definitely leans into the whole rustic-luxury thing. Hardwood floors, vintage furniture, a minibar filled with overpriced drinks, and no TV. That last part felt like a blessing. Instead of zoning out, we soaked in the view from our balcony. Even though we didn’t splurge on the mountain view, the forest out back was still gorgeous.
The Rooms Hotel even has a wine-barrel jacuzzi, which we obviously had to test. It was actually hot, unlike a lot of lukewarm European hot tubs we’ve experienced. We’ll admit it: we’re jacuzzi snobs.
The next morning, we aimed for Gergeti Trinity Church, perched high above the town. The original plan was to drive, but somehow, we ended up hiking. That “easy walk” turned into a real workout. The trail was steep, rocky, and beautiful. We passed through wild terrain with Mount Kazbek looming behind the church. The view from the top was unreal. Inside the church, there were no photos allowed, but the space was filled with ancient stone, colorful icons, and that heavy feeling of history that makes you whisper.
After our descent, we found lunch in the town. Giant shawarma wraps hit the spot. We opted for the “small,” which was still huge. Then it was off to Saint Elias Church, another small chapel on a nearby hill. You won’t find a lot of info about this place online, but it faces the Gergeti Trinity Church with Mount Shani in the background. A hidden gem worth the short detour.
One thing we learned while here was the Georgian Orthodox cross often has a horizontal bar that looks like it’s sagging. It’s not a mistake. It’s designed to look like grapevines.
We wrapped up our time with a hike to Gveleti Waterfall. You’ll find signs calling it a “pleasant” walk. That’s subjective. It’s not the hardest hike, but it’s rocky and steep in parts. Still, once you reach the falls, the reward is worth it. The sound of rushing water and the sheer size of the drop made it a trip highlight.
This visit to Stepantsminda was quieter than some of our other trips. There aren’t many big tourist attractions here. It’s more about slowing down and taking in the natural beauty. If you’re already in Georgia, it’s absolutely worth the drive. Breathe the mountain air. Soak your tired legs in a hot tub. And hike to a waterfall you’ll remember for a long time.
If you want to see the mountain views, waterfalls, and bougie hotel for yourself, catch our full adventure on YouTube below.
